Copyright © 2010, Published by Art of Leadership Enterprises Inc. All Rights Reserved
by Yuri Yanchyshyn
It could be your grandmother’s china cabinet, a chest brought back by a relative from overseas, a
handmade table purchased directly from the artist or a period chair that is part of a larger collection.
Historic furniture – like the people who created it – comes in a wide range of shapes and sizes. Owning
and living with historic furniture is one of life’s greatest pleasures. On the other hand, it also carries
some tremendous responsibilities, particularly if you want to retain the aesthetic, historical and monetary
value of the objects in your care.
The primary material of most historic furniture is wood. We don’t really think about it, but wood is a
fairly complex organic substance – and different types of wood respond differently to environmental
conditions. Most historic furniture also includes various secondary materials including hardware and a
wide array of surface finishes. 20th century furniture may include non traditional materials, such as
plastics, manufactured woods and tubular metal.
for many years to come.
1.Monitor temperature
Temperature is one of the most critical elements that impacts historic furniture. The optimal
recommended year round temperature range for a general furniture collection is 50-72 degrees. Outside
that range – or even with substantial fluctuations within it – degradation accelerates rapidly. Modern
materials are especially vulnerable. Plastics can warp or become brittle, while metals are susceptible to
delamination, where the coatings are loosened and sometimes begin to flake due to expansion and
contraction. More traditional wooden furniture is not immune, either. Long-term stresses due to change
in temperature can impact glues and varnishes, make coatings opaque and desiccate leathers. Collectors
who are especially concerned about the long term preservation of their collections will keep the
temperature toward the low end of the range.
2.Keep an eye on humidity
Wood fibers are particularly responsive to changes in humidity, absorbing and releasing moisture. The
optimal recommended relative humidity range is 40-50%. However, in our modern, climate-controlled
environments, interior humidity can vary from over 60% in summer months to under 20% during winter
months. This wide fluctuation places undue stress on historic furniture and can cause warping,
delamination of veneers, gilding and lacquer finishes, splits and loosening of joints. Museums use very
sophisticated control and monitoring systems to avoid damage to their collections. While these are
impractical for most homes and offices, you can purchase relatively inexpensive hygrometers (humidity
gauges) and humidifiers. It is generally not terribly difficult to retain a temperature of 50-72° F and a relative humidity of
40-50%. Above all, avoid subjecting your furniture to wide fluctuations in temperature and humidity.
When moving it from one area to another, make sure the conditions in the new location are as similar as
possible to those in the former one.
3.Moderate lighting
Light – whether sunlight or artificial light, contains some ultraviolet – which can have a negative impact
on furniture. Usually, it deteriorates the finish layer, but it can often damage the topmost layer of the
wood itself. Upholstery is vulnerable as well. Signs of light damage include bleaching, loss of gloss on
a finish or increased opacity or “cloudiness.” Protecting your furniture from harmful lighting conditions
is straightforward. The first step is to remove historic and valuable furniture from bright rooms. If this
is not practical, keep curtains, shutters or shades drawn during the hours of maximum brightness. You
can also apply some light-intensity reducing film directly to the window glass. If the room happens to
have fluorescent lighting, it is a good idea to place UV-absorbing sleeves over the bulbs. Also, when
furniture is in storage or in seldom-used rooms, cover it with unbleached muslin or a similarly soft,
untreated cloth.
4.Remove dust and dirt carefully
Just as we don’t think much about wood, we don’t think much about dust; we simply take it for granted
that it’s there. Like wood, though, dust is quite complex. Frequently it contains chemicals and abrasives
that can be damaging to your furniture. Dust should be removed frequently – and with great care.
Establish a regular surface cleaning schedule and use a soft brush and vacuum to remove dust without
abrading the surface.
5.Be on the lookout for biological predators
Molds, mildews and fungi can be profoundly damaging to furniture and toxic to humans as well. They
typically thrive in moist, warm environments where there is little air movement. Below-ground storage
rooms are notorious for these conditions. Mold and mildew can stain surfaces or etch coatings. In
severe cases, wood rot, a form of fungus, can reduce wood fibers to a powder. Getting the humidity level
under control is the essential first step in addressing fungus or mildew damage. Insects are another
natural predator that can decimate your furniture with surprising speed. Powder post beetles and
furniture beetles are especially common in European furniture. The larvae of these beetles often live
deep in the wood and feed on the wood fibers, emerging only when they become adults,. They can be
especially destructive to furniture’s structural integrity. Be on the lookout for exit holes or frass, the
fine, dust-like product of insect activity. If you discover an infestation, your furniture will need to be
fumigated.
6.Examine your furniture regularly
It is a good idea to get in the habit of examining your historic furniture on an annual or semi-annual
basis. Get to know its surfaces intimately – even those on the inside or under-side. Examine lacquers
for lifting and cracking that can indicate delamination. Look for flaking on gilded or painted surfaces.
Check thoroughly for cracks in the finish or underlying wood. Scan for changes in the clarity and
transparency of varnishes and shellacs. Study applied carving and inlays to make sure nothing is loose.
Test joints gently to make sure that they are still stable and capable of bearing loads. Study furniture
made of modern materials especially closely for signs of warping in plastics, rust or surface corrosion in
metals and the separation of the layers of plywoods and other manufactured woods.
If your historic furniture is especially valuable – or is part of a collection – it may make sense for you to
enlist the help of a conservator to perform both an initial inspection and periodic surveys. It is generally
much easier – and much less expensive – to correct issues when they are discovered early.
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Yuri Yanchyshyn is the principal and senior conservator of Period Furniture Conservation, LLC, a New
York firm dedicated to the conservation of furniture and objects. More information can be found at
http://periodfurnitureconservation.com
detail of a George II chinoiserie table, private collection
detail of a Scott Burton Table, private collection